Leaving Lisbon

I managed to skip both lunch and dinner yesterday. I am ready for breakfast but I was told last night that the included breakfast isn't until 8:30am. Since I woke at 3am I have some time to occupy. Unwilling to forgo a free meal I wait. It wasn't worth it. A roll, a small yogurt, some fruit juice and some black liquid mistakenly called coffee. An opportunity to practice gratitude; it fills my stomach and will give me the energy to walk to lunch..

I set off at 9am and walk through the old expo site along the riverbanks. Then I head off into a floodplain valley which I remember seeing from the air yesterday. From the plane it looked like rich farming land. It's mostly marsh down here on the ground, but it's pleasant walking. It is also fairly flat, as I meander around the hills. My guidebook says that 35 metres will be the high point of my walk today. That's good as the temperature is 34.

I stop at a little village called Alpriarte for lunch. I have walked 14kms in 4 hours. Getting used to the physical demands of walking has taken most of my attention this morning. I have the salted grilled fish, bacalhau, for lunch. Served with salad and bread it's perfect. Accompanied by two beers and an espresso, a bica, the hour break becomes a moment of extreme gratitude and bliss.  I can see how the bacalhau has been so important in the history of Portugal, it's certainly traveling food. Not such good news for Atlantic cod or those who were caught in the slave trade.

I arrive in Villa Franca de Xira at about  7:30pm. I've travelled 30.4kms today. I don't think I've ever walked that far in a day before. My calves hurt, my shoulders are sore. I've got a bit of bruising on my collarbone from the pack. I got through my 3 litres of water with about 7kms to go. A 500ml beer helped keep the fluids up. €1.10 well spent.

I get a whole room with a shower and basin tonight. I use the shower and get changed so I can go find some dinner, though I am not hungry. I lie down to just give myself a rest before going out and I fall asleep. When I wake up it's nearly midnight, so I wash my clothes and go back to sleep. Day two is done.