The end and the beginning

Today is the day we reach Santiago. Since Porto I have met new people each day. Over that time a little community has formed. At 6:30am 10 of us gathered together to walk the final 12.9kms to the Cathedral. It's completely dark and we use torches to find the arrows and markers. Donald is slightly ahead of us and we loose him at an intersection. We can't see him or find an arrow. The map, GPS and some local advice all tell us that we are on a main road to Santiago, but not the marked path. We decide to continue as we are heading in the right direction at least. After a few more kilometres I can smell bread. We are yet to find an open coffee shop. It's not a retail shop and I walk past slightly despondent. One of the Spanish girls sees someone inside and knocks on the door to get directions. She emerges with two baguettes! Free. Rocio hands them to me and I break bread, with thanks. It seems a strangely spiritual thing to be doing together and I am not the only one to make the connection. It is also delicious. If only a winemaker would appear an offer us a bottle, but not many of my companions would expect full communion.

At 8:15am we find Donald waiting at the coffee shop, which is about to open. The Camino has focused our daily needs to just a few things. This is definitely one of them.

We now have 6.094km to go according to the way marker. Our goal is to make it to the midday mass, as Rocio, Ana and Alicia are taking the bus home tonight. There is already an awareness that the end of our shared adventure is near. Several others, including Carlos, will leave tomorrow. I have walked with Carlos for over three weeks. Saying goodbye is going to be hard.

Though a few are carrying feet and knee injuries we keep walking at a good enough pace and we get our first glimpse of the Cathedral at 10:40am. We have made it, and made it on time.
We have enough time to take some photos and soak in the atmosphere. There is also time for those of us staying to tonight to book in to a hotel and drop off our back packs.

Donald walked the Camino Francis last year and has an excellent recommendation for accomodation. Its a monastery turned into a hotel and it's right beside the Cathedral. €23 with buffet breakfast. I book in for two nights. I haven't had a real breakfast in 4 weeks. Seminario Mayor if you are in town. They have single rooms for pilgrims, with ensuite. So it seems I still have a taste for more than the necessities of life.

We go to the mass. I would have liked to have understood what was said but it was moving anyway as I took in the significance of my walk. Some of us are Catholic, some of us are Protestant, some are agnostic, and we have done it together. We have followed a way together. It is sad to know it is finished.

We spend the rest of the day and the next getting our compostella, eating together, seeing the city and saying goodbye.

I now have just over a week before I travel back home. I want to see more of Spain, as I have seen so much more of Portugal. Travelling with Carlos and then also with Rocio, Ana and Alicia has given me a glimpse into the gloom of the Spanish economy and how it affects the aspirations of it's young people.

Tomorrow I will take a bus to Finisterre and then an overnight train to Madrid. I will get back to Lisbon in time for my flight on the 17th, when I can finally catch my flight home. If it were possible I would fly today, but since I have the time I will use it to try and experience more of Spain and it's people.

I miss Meredith, and Chloe and Charlotte. If I were a medieval pilgrim then Santiago would only be the halfway point in the journey. I am very grateful I am not walking home and that for me this nearly marks the end.  A new journey awaits when we are reunited.

Today's photos:
1. Our first glimpse of the Cathedral
2. We made it. From left: Me (Australia),  Carlos (Spain), Wade (Usa), Donald (Canada), Neil (England), Ana (Spain), Jim (Usa), Flavia (Brazil), Alicia (Spain), Rocio (Spain).
3. We made it in time to get a seat.
4. Lighting the botafumeiro.
5. The Cathedral at night.
6. Jim with his compostella
7. My very own Santiago cake. It was nice. Sorry but unlike some of the others I can't bring one home to share.
8. At the spot where pilgrims used to be able to put their hand on the pillar.
9. There is still time for washing even though I have to improvise the drying method. The monastery roof works well. Best drying time of the whole trip.