Wednesday 14 August 2013

Arrived and walking

After three flights and over 20,000kms I have arrived in Lisbon. I have about 10kms to walk to find my first bed in 48 hours. I take the metro to Terreiro do Paço and take in the magnificent view of the marina and the terrace square.
My first task is to walk to the cathedral and buy a credential. This will mark my status as a pilgrim and be a record of where I have passed through.

It doesn't help to be sleep deprived when in unfamiliar places, though I suppose I it doesn't help even when I know where I am. My phone ran flat during the flight, even though it was turned of, so I will have to rely on my paper technology and my wits. If only I had someone at hand to say, "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

There are some street signs and I have a map and its not long before I correctly work my way through the maze of narrow streets to see the cathedral on the hill. Then I get confused as it appears to be another church. I go in anyway as I am interested, and a quite place to pray and sit sounds like a good next move.

After taking some photos and having a look around I head out to find the cathedral, but it seems to have disappeared. Eventually I realize that I have in fact already been to it and so I head back inside and ask if they sell the credential.  The lady behind the counter dug around in the drawer and pulled one out. Having no language in common proved a bit of fun as we established that I would like it stamped now. She then pointed to a spot under the stamp and a word, that not surprisingly, I did not recognize. After some more pointing I establish that it is the date. I would like her to put that in. She would like me to put in. After several rounds she won and I wrote the date on my credential. Actually I wrote yesterday's date. When I realise that, while filling in her form, I change the 12 to 13 and I am officially on my way. 13/08/2013 at 3:10pm. She stamped the cathedral upside down, unique..

It's a hot day and I take a fairly steady pace towards the youth hostel that I intend to stay in tonight. The buildings are interesting, some with tiled exteriors. Most also have weeds growing off them. There is definitely a sense that the glory days of Lisbon are past. There are yellow arrows spay painted around to help keep on track through the winding streets and lanes.  My guide book tells me that the hostel is an 800 metre detour from the way. I can see on the map that I can cut that down by not heading into the old expo site about 3kms from my goal. This is a handy observation as have not seen an arrow for a while so I continue to walk parallel to the train line and look for Moscavide station.

I walk past an open shop, the first in several kilometers and decide that it is time for a coke and if possible some confirmation that I am close to the street I am looking for. The woman speaks English and she points me in the direction I have to go. I am close but it is on the other side of the tracks. She offers me a glass and some ice for the coke and I so sit down and enjoy the refreshing cool of an iced drink.

She has pointed me across the road to a car park and then the station. I go up and over then track and at the bottom of the stairs open my guide book to see if I can find any helpful hints as to where my street is.

A guy behinds me calls out. He offers to help. He tells me that the place I am looking for is back on the other side of the tracks. In fact it is beside the car park that I just walked through. He's partially toothless and clearly a few beers into the afternoon and I have to decide whose advice to trust. He offers to take me there, and I follow Fernand, who is both friendly and chatty. This is 'my city' he tells me in such a way that I couldn't help think of a scene from Braveheart.  He did not lead me astray.

I get a bed in a 4 room dorm, though I'm the only one in it. I shower, wash my clothes and lie down. The bed is so good I fall asleep testing it.  Day one is done.

500ml cold water from the grocer- 25c
Iced coke - €1.25
Youth hostel bed - €15.30
Advice from a stranger - priceless...

6 comments:

  1. Having travelled through Spain, France and Italy I had images in my mind of what you'd seen as you walked. Remembered the great places and people that I met in my travels. Thankyou! Enjoy your well earned rest.

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  2. Good start! God working through the community :) D&L

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  3. Well done, all important chores done! good to hear from you L&R

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  4. Great to hear from you and your adventures,us mums are glad to see you have done your washing. Jan R

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  5. Phil, Maggie and I are keeping you in your prayers and know you will have an awesome time. On a pesonal note I was happy to see you found your caffeine in a ice cold coke...

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  6. To sleep in Rubiães (from 20km Ponte de Lima and 20km of Valença/Tuy) we recommend this hostel:
    https://www.facebook.com/RepousoDoPeregrino?ref_type=bookmark
    Good walks and enjoy!

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