King of the hill, or Humpty Dumpy..

My feet are not up to another 30km day so I have to make a decision. Breakfast and a look at the map helps me come up with an alternative. I don't want to just stay here, so I decide to walk around and see the sights of Santarém then descend the hill to the train station. If my feet are holding up ok by then I'm going to take a train to a station close to the two thirds mark. I will have a 4km walk from there where I can stay if I need to or walk to Golegã if I think I can manage that. This will make the day about 14kms. The view from the old Moorish fort is incredible. After a second breakfast and a call home it's time to descend. I go through the medieval Santiago gate. This morning I have learnt that the apricot roll I am ordering everywhere is a regional specialty called 'pampilho'. It is worth checking out. I make the walk from the station to Azinhaga ok and decide to walk to Golegã. Tomorrow I will have a few more options if I am not up to walking 30kms a day yet. This is one of the differences between the Portuguese and the more established French way. There a simply not as many places to stay, so it's not as easy to slow down for a bit. It's another walk on an asphalt road, where I have to hop off to the side whenever a car comes along. It's nearly all cornfields, with a patch of capsicum to break the monotony. It's hot again, around 34, and I'm sure this has been the problem for my feet. Golegã is pretty and there is a festival on tonight. After checking in on the 15th century church I make my way to the first recommendation in the guide, a lady who has walked the Camino and is letting out a room to pilgrims. Except she's not doing that anymore. She is however incredibly helpful, inviting me in and getting me a drink while she tries to contact the person who can let me in to a new place that is not in the book. After half an hour I have both a glimpse into how walking the camino can change someone's life and just as I am on the point of deciding whether to take another train to the next city we finally get a return call to say I can go over. So I get a 'bom caminho' badge and a guided walk to my albergue. It's amazing, effectively my own private Portuguese villa as no one else is here today, and it's only €10. Cheapest and by far the nicest so far. This has been one of those 'what you need will find you' experiences. It's only 5pm so I can do the washing while it is still light and hang it outside for a change. That only leaves dinner. I find a nice looking but completely empty restaurant near the church square. The owner speaks English so I say I'd like to try something Portuguese. I'm right not to judge by the lack of patronage as the food is amazing. Carne de porco à alentejana, pork and little clams. The fires being covered on the news here are no where near me or where I am going, but there is some very hot weather coming after the next two days which will continue to be in the 30's. The forecast for Tuesday is for 40 degrees. I think I will have to do some very early morning walking and review my distance plans. My toes are a bit better this evening, in fact they are fine to walk on as long as I don't have my shoes on. Perhaps another reason to try to make an early start, to keep my feet cooler. It might also mean time for some new shoes. Tomar is the next place that might be possible, which will be one or two days away. Day four has been quite pleasant, and best not to think too much yet about the next few. Photos: One of the many buildings with exterior tiles. Some of the view from the top of Santarém. The main (15th Century) church at Golegã. The interior, with painted tile depictions of gospel scenes. A business, presumably a tile painter.