Port, Porto, Portugal.

Today we plan to make it to Porto. It is a long and hilly stage. We have over 34kms to cover through mostly urban areas, with two forest sections on the old pilgrimage road to bring respite from the concrete, asphalt and cobblestones. Cobblestones are horrible to walk on, I suspect it is why so many old people we pass by are limping.

We leave at 7am and ascend the hill out of the city of São João de Madeira. We pass the attractive blue tiled mother church as it rings it's bells for 7:30am. We reach a point where the arrows disappear and have to search around for them. We eventually work out that someone has sprayed over them with a silver paint that nearly matches the concrete. Thanks for that. Once we are on to this new challenge we find the way again fairly easily. Who ever it was gives up after a few hundred metres and we find the familiar yellow again. A small exception to the wonderful kindness and helpfulness I have seen from Portuguese people over the last two weeks.

By 9am we reach our first small section of Roman road. The big stones are not easy to walk on. There is a track off the road and into the forest. My guide mentions it so we take it. It is an enchanting piece of woodland forest but it only lasts a couple of hundred metres until it brings us back out to the track, still in view of where we entered. If only more of Portugal's forests were like this.

By 10am the cool and easy walking of the morning is starting to give way to the heat of the day. It will reach 30 degrees again today, so it's nice to have done 14kms in temperatures under 20.

There is a smoke haze on the horizon and enough smoke in the air to slightly tint the sun. The news this morning said there were 20 active fires in the country, with two if them being around Porto.

After several breaks we reach the monastery at Grijó just before 1pm. A shaded piece of grass gives us a half way rest before we find a cafe for lunch.

At 2:30 we are off again, through suburban alleys and lanes. As we reach the base of our second major climb for the day we enter a forest section again. This one lasts for several kilometres and includes some Roman road, and eucalyptus trees which I am fairly sure neither the Romans nor the Medieval pilgrims saw.

The final 6.5kms are through the southern bank the city of Porto. It's Portugal's second largest city and people here are used to seeing pilgrims. Most people who walk the Portuguese Way start from the cathedral here, which is on the other bank of the river. When we reach the bridge and lookout across to the old city we stop and sit down to take it in. It is an incredible sight. I think I can make out the cathedral, but there are several churches and monasteries in view, so I am not completely sure. The bridge across the river is frightening. A very low railing and a drop that brings joy to my love of heights. I can't walk in the middle of the bridge because there are two metro lines. Train or fall, it's a tough choice. I put on a brave face and smile for the camera.

On the other side we are approached by two Italian guys who are starting out tomorrow. They are staying at the volunteer firefighters tonight. It doesn't have a shower, which doesn't bother these two, at least not today. Perhaps it will in a few days time. Our plan is to find a room with a shower and use tomorrow to explore Porto before heading off for Santiago the next day. Pilgrims have a certain look and we spot several more as we walk around.

By the time we find a place to stay it's after 8pm. Even though we have been walking for 13 hours a shower has amazing rejuvenating abilities. We head back out to find somewhere for dinner. We are staying close to one of the big churches, this one has a tower, so we should be able to find our way back. The streets have so many winding lanes and hills that it is easy to loose yourself. I had to use GPS to find our hotel. We spot a church up on the top of another hill so we walk up. On the way we pass a jazz bar that has a Fado performance at ten. We find a cheap place to eat and then head back to the bar. We have to buy a drink to sit and listen so I get a port. The singer is female and has an amazing voice. The port is good too. In Coimbra only men are allowed to sing Fado. Carlos is a musician and plays bass in a band, The Levitantes ( http://thelevitants.bandcamp.com/ ). We have talked a lot about music along the way and one of his must do activities is to hear a female Fado singer. It's taken 376 kilometres, but it is now 'mission accomplished'.

Day 15 ends at midnight.

Today's photos:
1. Woodland detour
2. Monastery at Grijó
3. Roman road, with gum trees
4. Porto
5. Porto
6. The bridge is only 45 metres high.
7. Porto, looking south.
8. Fado