Halfway there...

We leave at 7am and discover a new sensation for the way so far, walking in misty rain. As we go along the narrow country lanes we walk past a snake, cat and rabbit, all roadkill. I decide this is probably a place to keep a watch out on the road. Portuguese driving seems to emphasize speed, but until today the only things I have seen dead on the side of the road are tomatoes.

We stop for breakfast at 9am, it's a nice nice place but with expensive freshly squeezed orange juice. In most places you pay after you have finished rather that when you order, so there is a little room for bill shock. Mostly though it's a really nice way to have a few things and then pay at the end. Generally, food here is very cheap.

At Avelãs de Camino we reach a sign saying 303km to go, so I have done more than half the distance to Santiago. I am definitely no longer just starting out. I have noticed that over the last few days my thoughts have been less about the physical side of walking. This morning I have been thinking about the differences in the places I have passed through.

Everywhere I have been I have found helpful people. Often they have gone out of their way to make sure we are ok and get what we need.

While I remember, I got a helpful message on an earlier post from a  local to tell me that my guidebook is wrong about the aquaduct south of Coimbra. It's 18th century and was not cut in two to make way for the freeway. I shall have to pass this on to the author, John Brierley.

One thing that I have noticed as I have traveled north is that more and more of the Church bells have been replaced by speakers playing the sound of bells ringing. It is not as good as the real bells. Real bells ringing and echoing around the hills to mark the time is wonderful. The fake bells have often been distorted and completely lack the charm of the real.

Another thing is water fonts. Most are dry. Most of the rest that have water have signs saying that it's not fit for consumption. A few don't have any sign, just so you can take a guess. Perhaps one in one hundred provides you with the confidence of a potable water sign. I don't normally think about where I can get water from but as a walker it becomes an issue. This Camino is changing my priorities, at least temporarily.

At Aguada de Baixo we stop and try a glass of the locally made wine, purely for research. It's delicious and only 60c.

We arrive at Agueda at 4:30pm and find a nice place for a drink. Then it's off to find the Albergue. I have to ask three separate people but eventually arrive at Casa Azul. It looks like an abandoned house. I decide to see what it looks like inside, so I wait until the manager arrives back at 7pm. It is habitable inside so we both stay. It's only €5. Many places in Portugal are trying to build the same sort of support for pilgrims that exists on Spain, but it will clearly take a lot of effort. This one turns out to be a very nice and friendly albergue, even though Carlos and I are the only two here. They have had 7 guests this week, mostly to Fatima.

Today's photos: 1. Carlos at a font. 2. Me at the 303km to SC sign. 3. Local wine. 4. Tiled church. 5. Agueda. 6. The Albergue.